Up Close: the Grid Cord Jam Pants
As well as forging forth with new, progressive designs and perfecting much-loved classics like the G-Pants and G-Shorts, every season we like to look back into our extensive back catalog and bring back a few of our lesser-spotted creations from the Gramicci range. This time around, we’ve scoured our archives to resurrect a unique pair of Jam Pants which we last made in the early 1990s.
One of the first Gramicci creations, the original Jam Pants were made right back in the early days of the brand. With a single rear pocket and a complete waist closure, these hard-wearing minimal masterpieces sort of set the scene for everything we’ve made since. Even more stripped-back than our iconic G-Pants, they were simple, straight-forward outdoor trousers, created with freedom in mind.
Designed first and foremost for the rigors of rock climbing, they featured the movement-enhancing diamond crotch gusset and built-in nylon belt that Gramicci have since become famous for, with zero unnecessary gimmicks to overcomplicate things.
Over the years the Jam Pants have been made out of all sorts of fabrics—but this season we’ve brought back a particular pair which were constructed from a mysterious grid patterned material. With just an old photograph to go off for reference, working out what this fabric actually was wasn’t easy—from a distance it looked like ripstop, or maybe even bedford cord, but on closer inspection we worked out it was actually vertical cotton corduroy, with stripes printed straight over the top. Once we sussed that out, we got the ball rolling on actually making the things…
Starting with the fabric, we chose a narrow-gauge needlecord made from 100% cotton that has the warmth and comfort you’d associate with cord, without the weight you get from thick jumbo cord. As well as being a mainstay of the work-wear world, corduroy has long been worn for the great outdoors—up until the age of synthetic materials it was often relied on by climbers and mountaineers, and although things on the performance side of things have moved on a bit, cord is still perfect for when something simple, practical and low-maintenance is called for.
Because these aren’t your regular cords, the fabric was then printed with horizontal stripes to give it that unique grid-effect, and in-keeping with the vintage feel, the trousers were garment dyed. This is the same way we used to dye clothes back in the 80s and 90s, and basically means that we dye the trousers once they’ve been put together, rather than piece by piece. Due to this process, the Jam Pants are the kind of things that’ll only get better with age, developing a unique patina the more you wear ‘em.
As for the fit, they’ve got the same tried-and-tested shape as our G-Pants. Nice and roomy in the thighs with gently tapered legs, they sit between the narrow NN Pants and the baggier Gadget Pants, making them the ideal everyday, do-it-all pants that work well right across the board. And because they’ve got full-length legs, they’ll keep those ankles covered on frosty winter mornings.
Think of them sort of like corduroy trousers for those who don’t usually like corduroy trousers—they’ve still got that classic luxurious cord texture, but thanks to that functional fit and singular grid pattern, they’re a long way away from the stuffy, traditional trousers that most people associate with the fabric.
And for those looking for the full cord utility suit, we also make the Grid Cord Zip Shirt—a relaxed single-pocket overshirt made from the same printed corduroy fabric…